April 17, 2020
Started project by removing door, screen door, and both jambs from the trailer. This was necesary in order to remove the existing ice box from the trailer and to get the new lp/ac refrigerator into the trailer as neither one would fit through the door opening with doors and jambs in place.
Did some preliminary demo of the opening that housed the old ice box.
These steps took approximately 4 1/2 hours.
April 22, 2020
Installed 2 1" pvc conudits under the trailer in order to get the gas supply and electrical wire to the side of trailer where the fridge will be placed.
Also today ran the 12-2 romex in the new conduit.
Need to order my gas supply line as I now have a good idea how long it needs to be. Worked about 5.5 hours today
April 25, 2020
Today the electrical tie-in was done at the main panel, with a loop to an outlet behind the stove. 12 ga. wire was used per Norcolds recommendations.
Also cut in the lower fresh air/access panel, which allowed me to locate the electrical outlet which will service the fridge; and get an idea as to where the gas supply will be placed. It's a tight fit but do-able. Thankfully the Shasta side vertical framing members are placed exactly where needed for the lower and upper intake/exhaust vents! Just had to add 1 horizontal framing member for the bottom vent, but the top will require 2 horizontals, which will be held in place with screws through the 1/4 " plywood from the inside. Worked about 6 hours today
April 27, 2020
The gas hose to extend gas supply to the new fridge arrived from Amazon today. Routed it from tie-in behind stove to new fridge, installed a temporary cap at fridge end so I could double, triple check for leaks behind stove before it is bolted back in place; (left the gas on so tomorrow I can quadruple check for leaks before the stove goes back in place).
Also today, completed electical installation at new outlet location for new fridge. Checked for proper voltage (120v), which I have; sweet!
Finally finished today with locating and cutting in the rough opening for the upper side vent.
It's easy to write all these jobs down, however, I worked on this about 7 hours today.
April 29, 2020
Finished framing in upper vent rough opening and pre-drilled mounting holes for exterior vent cover.
Removed floor and gave top and bottom a coat of sealer.
Installed some extra sheilding for gas supply line where it enters the trailer floor at both locations.
Started fabricating the upper fridge enclosure panels.
Worked about 5 hours today.
April 30, 2020
Completed the upper enclosure shelf and baffle (which directs hot air out to the upper vent), and stained the interior side to match the ash Shasta paneling. Installed 1" rigid foil faced insul-board on either side of the enclosure which closes the gaps on the fridge sides (Norcold recommends less than 1/2 inch clearance for both sides); I wound up with about as close to zero clearance as possible. Using urethane sealant I also seals the floor penetrations where the gas/electric was routed. Worked about 3 1/2 hours today.
May 1, 2020
Finally! Ready to slide the fridge in for the last time, and it was a perfect fit! Hooked up the gas supply, checked and triple checked for leaks then lit the fridge on propane for the first time, ( we had already tested the AC side prior to this). After about 3 hours the fridge started to cool; filled the ice cube tray and checked after another 3 hours to find ice starting to form, walked away from it for today; checked early the next morning to find solid cubes in the tray. I plan on running the fridge on propane for 3-4 days to get a feel for how much gas is being used.*
Remaining tasks include deciding on a door panel insert, matching the paneling or brushed aluminum/stainless?? Securing the fridge to the enclosure/floor with provided screws. Will also need to modify the storage door/mirror above the fridge as it encroached about 3 inches into that existing space. This should be a nice upgrade to make camping just that much more enjoyable. Stained/varnished fridge panel in place (turned out a little darker as a different species of plywood was used, but it will do for now).(painting vents, fridge door panel, and modifying upper cabinet door/mirror: about 6 hours)
* ran the fridge on gas from a hot start-up for 5 + days in 100 degree heat and it used about 3.5 gal. propane. It should do better if I pre-cool first using 110 v, then switch to gas before travelling.
What can you do to ensure that your vintage trailer doesn’t get that funky musty smell? Mold and mildew can make your trailer stink and do damage to the soft surfaces inside your RV. The musty smell when you walk into the RV is an indication that there are damp areas where mold could be growing. A dehumidifier in your RV when it is stored for extended periods of time will prevent the build-up of moisture.
Mold can occur during winter as windows are closed and the surface of walls and windows become colder because the outside air temperature is lower. Simply opening a window is not a solution in the winter months, this is where a dehumidifier comes in. It will reduce the level of humidity in the air by sucking in air from the room at one end, removing the moisture, and then blowing dehumidified air back out into the room again.
Many RV owners find that compressor dehumidifiers would not work well at temperatures below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, and there were often problems with the compressor dehumidifier machines icing up. These dehumidifiers address these issues, functioning consistently well at all temperatures.
You can also attract and remove moisture from the air with a scented moisture absorber. For $10-$30 you can protect your vintage trailer from moisture damage while you eliminate musty odors. Excess moisture is absorbed into the white calcium chloride crystals. The white crystals begin to harden and form a solid mass. Hardened crystals must be discarded and re-purchased as they are used. Another trick is to place open containers of coffee (a cup or so) in your cabinets. The coffee grounds can help neutralize any odors that you may already have.
Courtesy of the Vintage Camper Trailers Magazine
How fun would it be to work with vintage trailers every day? The vintage trailering hobby only seems to be growing. Vintage trailers appeal to so many people for so many different reasons. Restoring them for rallies, rentals and mobile vendors are just a few of the ways vintage trailers are being used. If you are knowledgeable with all areas of RV repair/restoration and have experience managing other workers, this may be the opportunity you have been looking for.
Vintage Campers is a full-service vintage camper and vintage trailer dealer specializing in SPARTAN and other riveted trailers. They mainly deal in trailers from the 40s’, 50s’ and 60s’ with riveted construction because they are more durable trailers and will last a lifetime. Offering vintage trailer sales, restoration services (major and minor), as well as, new, salvaged and reproduction vintage trailer parts, Vintage Campers is a respected go-to in among trailer restorers and a longtime supporter/advertiser in the Vintage Camper Trailers Magazine. Other trailers in their stock include Airstreams, Avions, Silver Streaks, Boles Aeros, Vagabonds, Curtis Wrights, Streamlines and others. Wood framed vintage campers like Shastas, Scottys, Yellowstones, Fans, Trotwoods and Palace trailers also find their way in to Vintage Campers yard.
Centrally located in the Midwest in the small town of Peru, Indiana. Whether you are applying for a position or looking for your next vintage trailer, Dan and his crew are there to serve you with the honesty and integrity that you deserve. Thanks for visiting VintageCampers.com. They hope to hear from you soon. Email your resume: firstname.lastname@example.org
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